Published pricing. Real preparation. Since 2001.
Epoxy Garage Floor Coating in Dallas and Fort Worth
Epoxy done right sticks for twenty years. Epoxy done fast lifts the first hot August you park on it.
Short answer
An epoxy garage floor is a two-part resin and hardener system applied over mechanically prepared concrete. In Dallas-Fort Worth it runs $5 to $6.50 per square foot installed for a solid color and $6 to $8 with a flake broadcast, which puts a typical two-car garage between $2,200 and $4,500.
Overview
An epoxy garage floor is a two-part resin and hardener system applied over mechanically prepared concrete. In Dallas-Fort Worth it runs $5 to $6.50 per square foot installed for a solid color and $6 to $8 with a flake broadcast, which puts a typical two-car garage between $2,200 and $4,500.
Epoxy has a real reputation problem in this market, and most of it is deserved. Big box kits, acid etching instead of grinding, and coatings driven on before they cure produce the peeling floors everybody has seen. None of that is the resin's fault. Prep and cure schedule cause almost every epoxy failure in DFW.
This page covers where epoxy is genuinely the right call, where a polyaspartic system beats it, and what it costs. Professional Garage Concepts has been on DFW garages since 2001, holds 532 Google reviews at 4.8 stars, and keeps sample panels at two showrooms. Call (817) 381-6173.
100 percent solids vs water-based vs solvent-based epoxy
Not all epoxy is the same product. The number that matters is solids content, which is the percentage of what you roll on that stays on the floor once the carrier evaporates. A 100 percent solids epoxy leaves everything. A 50 percent solids water-based epoxy leaves half.
That difference drives film thickness, and film thickness drives durability. It also drives what the coating can do about moisture.
- 100 percent solids epoxy. Nothing evaporates, so a single coat builds 10 to 20 mils. It is the only version that makes a rated moisture vapor barrier primer. Short pot life, needs a trained crew, and it is what we use on residential garage floors that need real build.
- Water-based epoxy. Typically 40 to 60 percent solids, going down at 2 to 4 mils per coat. It breathes, which is useful on damp slabs, and it is what most hardware store kits are. Thin, low cost, and short service life in a garage that sees vehicles.
- Solvent-based epoxy. Roughly 40 to 70 percent solids with deeper penetration into the slab and strong adhesion, but heavy VOCs make it a poor fit for an attached residential garage.
- Where they land in a real garage: 100 percent solids for the body coat and the vapor barrier, water-based only when a breathable film is specifically what the slab needs.
Mil thickness: what you are actually buying
A mil is one thousandth of an inch. A sheet of paper is about 4 mils. That is roughly what a big box epoxy kit leaves on your floor after two coats, which is why those floors wear through in the tire paths within a couple of years.
A real garage system is thicker by an order of magnitude. A 100 percent solids epoxy base coat runs 10 to 20 mils on its own. Add a full flake broadcast and a clear topcoat and the finished system lands somewhere between 20 and 40 mils depending on flake size.
Thickness is not the only thing that matters, and past a point it stops helping. A 40 mil floor with poor adhesion peels exactly as fast as a 10 mil floor with poor adhesion. What thickness buys you is wear life and the ability to level minor surface irregularity in the slab. Bond strength comes from the grind.
- Big box two-coat kit: roughly 3 to 5 mils total. Short life under vehicles.
- Water-based commercial epoxy, two coats: 5 to 8 mils. Light duty.
- 100 percent solids epoxy base plus clear topcoat: 15 to 25 mils. Full residential duty.
- 100 percent solids base, full flake broadcast, double topcoat: 25 to 40 mils. Heavy residential and light commercial.
- Mil thickness without a CSP 2 to 3 profile underneath is wasted money.
Why hot tire pickup happens and how we prevent it
Hot tire pickup is the failure everybody in DFW has seen: a patch of coating pulled off the slab in the exact shape of a tire. It is the single most common complaint about epoxy garage floors in Texas, and it has a specific mechanism.
A tire coming off a Texas highway in August can surface at 140 to 160 degrees. Set that on an epoxy floor and two things happen. The heat softens the film slightly, and plasticizers in the tire rubber migrate into the coating. As the tire cools it contracts and grips what it is touching. If the adhesion between the coating and the concrete is weaker than that grip, the coating comes up with the tire.
Everything about preventing it happens before the coating is opened.
- Mechanical profile, not acid. We diamond grind to CSP 2 to 3. Acid etching leaves soft laitance and residual salts that guarantee weak bond. This is the single biggest cause of hot tire pickup in DFW.
- Clean, dry, dust-free slab. Grinding dust left in a crack or at an edge is a bond breaker. We HEPA vacuum twice.
- Contamination removal. Oil-saturated concrete is degreased and, where necessary, ground deeper until we are into clean slab. Coating over an oil spot never works.
- A primer suited to the slab. Porous slabs get primed to stop pinholing and outgassing. Damp slabs get a vapor barrier primer.
- Full cure before vehicles. Epoxy needs 5 to 7 days before a car comes back in, no matter how dry the surface feels. Driving on it at day two is what turns a good install into a callback.
- A polyaspartic topcoat. Adding a fast-cure, higher-elongation clear over the epoxy body coat both shortens the wait and takes the tire load off the epoxy.
Moisture vapor barrier primers: the epoxy job nothing else does
This is the one place epoxy is genuinely irreplaceable. Concrete on grade wicks water from the soil and pushes it upward as vapor. Put a non-breathable coating over a slab with high vapor drive and the moisture collects under the film, builds osmotic pressure, and pushes the coating off. It looks exactly like an adhesion failure and it is not.
DFW has a lot of slabs at risk. Homes built before vapor retarders became standard practice often have nothing under the slab but sand and clay. Expansive Blackland Prairie clay holds water against the slab for weeks after a wet spring. Garages at the low end of a lot collect runoff along the apron.
We test rather than guess. A calcium chloride test measures moisture vapor emission rate in pounds per 1,000 square feet per 24 hours. An in-slab relative humidity probe reads the internal RH of the concrete. If those numbers come back high, a 100 percent solids epoxy moisture vapor barrier primer goes down first. Polyaspartic cannot do that job. No topcoat can.
Where epoxy is the right call over polyaspartic
We install more polyaspartic than epoxy, and we will say plainly that polyaspartic is the better system for a typical DFW garage. But there are four situations where epoxy is the correct answer and we specify it without hesitation.
First, moisture. A slab with high vapor emission needs an epoxy vapor barrier primer. That is not optional and no other chemistry substitutes.
Second, film build over a rough or previously damaged slab. Epoxy builds thick in a single pass and self-levels minor irregularity. A previously coated floor that was ground off, or a slab with widespread shallow spalling, benefits from an epoxy body coat that polyaspartic cannot match at the same labor cost.
Third, budget. A solid color 100 percent solids epoxy floor with a clear topcoat is the least expensive real coating system we install. If the choice is a properly prepped epoxy floor or no coating at all, the epoxy floor is the better outcome.
Fourth, chemical exposure in a shop setting. High-build epoxy has excellent resistance to a broad set of solvents and is the standard in industrial settings for that reason.
The build we recommend most often is a hybrid: 100 percent solids epoxy body coat, flake broadcast, and a clear polyaspartic topcoat. You get the epoxy build and the UV stability, fast recoat and abrasion resistance of polyaspartic on the surface.
What we do not do
We do not acid etch. We do not coat over a slab that is still holding oil. We do not coat over an existing film without removing it, because the new system can only be as strong as the old bond underneath. We do not skip the moisture test on a slab that looks suspect. And we do not tell a customer they can park on fresh epoxy in 48 hours to make a schedule work.
We will also tell you when the answer is not a coating at all. A slab with active structural cracking, significant differential settlement, or heaving from clay movement needs the underlying problem addressed. Coating it makes a moving problem look good for one season. On floors like that, polished concrete or a repair-first approach is the honest recommendation.
How it works
How we install an epoxy garage floor
- STEP 01
1. Slab evaluation and moisture testing
We inspect for spalling, previous coatings, oil saturation, crack activity and joint condition, then test moisture where the slab warrants it. A calcium chloride kit or an in-slab RH probe tells us whether a vapor barrier primer is required. That single test result changes both the build and the price, so we run it before quoting.
- STEP 02
2. Diamond grinding to CSP 2 to 3
The whole slab is ground with diamond tooling on a dust-shrouded planetary grinder, and edges and corners are hand-ground to the same profile. This removes laitance, opens the pores and creates the mechanical tooth the epoxy locks into. Acid etching is not part of any floor we install.
- STEP 03
3. Crack, spall and control joint repair
Cracks are chased open, blown clean and filled with a rigid or flexible polymer depending on whether the crack still moves. Spalls, pop-outs and anchor holes are patched with fast-set repair mortar and ground flush. On post-tension slabs, which are common in DFW homes built since the late 1980s, we scan before any cut rather than guessing where the tendons are.
- STEP 04
4. Degrease, vacuum and mask
Oil-contaminated areas are degreased and reground until we are into clean concrete. The floor is HEPA vacuumed, hand-detailed and vacuumed again. Walls, jambs, thresholds and adjacent finishes are masked, and the front termination line is set at the door seal so the edge stays clean.
- STEP 05
5. Primer or moisture vapor barrier coat
If the moisture numbers came back high, a 100 percent solids epoxy vapor barrier primer goes down and gets its own cure window before anything else happens. On dry but porous slabs we prime to stop outgassing, which is what causes pinholes and bubbles in an otherwise good floor.
- STEP 06
6. Mixing and 100 percent solids epoxy base coat
Resin and hardener are mixed at the exact ratio with a timed induction period, because an off-ratio or under-mixed batch of epoxy never fully cures and stays soft forever. The base goes down with a notched squeegee at spec thickness and is back-rolled for an even film. Batch size is set by the slab temperature that day.
- STEP 07
7. Flake broadcast, if you chose flake
Vinyl flake is broadcast into the wet epoxy, thrown up so chips land flat rather than on edge. Full broadcast goes until the floor rejects more chip. Partial broadcast is a lighter, controlled coverage that leaves the base color showing. Flake is what hides slab imperfections and gives the floor its traction.
- STEP 08
8. Scrape, vacuum and topcoat
Once the base has set, the floor is scraped to knock down chips standing on edge, then vacuumed and reclaimed. The clear topcoat goes down next. On most jobs we use a polyaspartic clear over the epoxy so the floor gets UV stability and a shorter return to service than a clear epoxy would allow.
- STEP 09
9. Cure and return to service
Epoxy needs 24 to 72 hours before foot traffic and 5 to 7 days before vehicles. With a polyaspartic topcoat those windows shorten to hours and about a day. We give you the exact date your vehicles can come back and we do not shorten it. Keep rubber-backed mats off the fresh floor for the first week.
Straight pricing
Epoxy garage floor cost in Dallas-Fort Worth
These are installed per square foot ranges for a residential DFW garage with a slab in reasonable condition. Removing a failed existing coating, a moisture vapor barrier primer, or extensive spall repair adds cost, and those items are itemized on the written quote before we start.
Solid color 100 percent solids epoxy
$5 to $6.50per sq ft installed
The lowest cost real coating system. Clean single color, storage garages, workshops and rental properties.
- Full diamond grind to CSP 2 to 3
- Crack and spall repair
- 100 percent solids pigmented epoxy base coat
- Clear protective topcoat
- Cleanup and haul-off
Epoxy base with full flake and polyaspartic topcoat
$6 to $10per sq ft installed
The build we recommend most. Epoxy film thickness underneath, UV-stable fast-cure clear on top.
- Full diamond grind and joint detailing
- Crack, spall and pop-out repair
- 100 percent solids epoxy base coat
- Vinyl flake broadcast to refusal
- Scrape, vacuum and reclaim
- Clear polyaspartic topcoat, gloss or satin
Moisture vapor barrier primer
$1 to $2per sq ft add-on
Slabs that test high for moisture vapor emission. Common on older on-grade DFW slabs with no vapor retarder.
- Calcium chloride or in-slab RH testing
- 100 percent solids epoxy vapor barrier primer
- One additional cure day in the schedule
Existing coating removal
$1.50 to $3per sq ft add-on
Garages with a failing DIY kit, an old epoxy floor, or an unknown sealer that has to come off before anything goes down.
- Mechanical grinding or shot blasting to bare concrete
- Containment and dust extraction
- Disposal of removed material
Answers
Frequently asked questions
Still stuck? Call (817) 381-6173 and talk to someone who does this every day.
How much does an epoxy garage floor cost in Dallas?
An epoxy garage floor in Dallas runs $5 to $6.50 per square foot installed for a solid color and $6 to $8 with a full flake broadcast. A typical two-car garage lands between $2,200 and $4,500. A moisture vapor barrier primer adds $1 to $2 per square foot and removing an old coating adds $1.50 to $3.
How long does an epoxy garage floor last?
A properly prepared 100 percent solids epoxy garage floor lasts 10 to 20 years in residential use. Life comes almost entirely from preparation and film thickness, not brand. A big box kit at 3 to 5 mils over an acid-etched slab may not survive three Texas summers, while a ground and primed 20 mil floor outlives most homeowners' time in the house.
Why do epoxy garage floors peel in Texas?
Epoxy peels in Texas for three reasons: the slab was acid etched instead of diamond ground, moisture vapor was pushing up through untested concrete, or vehicles came back before the epoxy fully cured. Hot tires at 140 degrees or more grip the surface as they cool, and if bond strength is low the coating lifts.
What is the difference between 100 percent solids and water-based epoxy?
100 percent solids epoxy leaves everything you apply on the floor, building 10 to 20 mils in a single coat, and it is the only version that can serve as a moisture vapor barrier. Water-based epoxy is 40 to 60 percent solids and leaves only 2 to 4 mils per coat, but it breathes, which helps on damp slabs.
How thick should an epoxy garage floor be?
A garage floor that sees vehicles should finish between 20 and 40 mils total, built from a 100 percent solids epoxy base, a flake layer, and a clear topcoat. For comparison, a hardware store two-coat kit leaves about 3 to 5 mils, roughly the thickness of a sheet of paper. Thickness only helps if bond strength is there.
How long before I can park on a new epoxy floor?
Plan on 5 to 7 days before vehicles return to a straight epoxy floor, and 24 to 72 hours before foot traffic. Parking early is the fastest way to cause hot tire pickup. If we finish with a polyaspartic topcoat, foot traffic is a few hours and vehicles come back at about 24 hours.
Should I choose epoxy or polyaspartic for my garage?
Choose polyaspartic for most DFW garages. It cures in a day, holds color under UV, and flexes with a slab on clay soil. Choose epoxy when the slab needs a moisture vapor barrier, when you need real film build over a rough slab, or when budget is the deciding factor. A hybrid of both is often the best answer.
Can you put epoxy over a slab with a moisture problem?
Only with a rated moisture vapor barrier primer underneath, and only after testing. We run a calcium chloride test or an in-slab relative humidity probe first, then apply a 100 percent solids epoxy vapor barrier primer if the numbers require it. Coating a wet slab without that step causes osmotic blistering that looks like a bond failure.
Does epoxy hide cracks in my garage floor?
Epoxy hides repaired cracks well, especially under a flake broadcast, because the repair is ground flush and the chip layer breaks up the sight line. What it does not do is stop a moving crack from reflecting through. Active cracks in DFW clay-soil slabs get a flexible polyurea filler rather than a rigid patch.
Do you install epoxy floors on post-tension slabs?
Yes, epoxy goes down on post-tension slabs normally, because grinding and surface patching do not disturb the steel tendons inside the concrete. What we do not do is saw cut, core drill or set anchors into a post-tension slab without scanning first to locate the cables. Cutting a tendon is a serious and expensive mistake.
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Learn moreReady to get epoxy floor coatings handled?
Call (817) 381-6173 or send the form. We answer quote requests the same business day, and we have been doing this across DFW since 2001.